Showing posts with label Alligator. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Alligator. Show all posts

Thursday, June 16, 2016

Meet Our Signature Bag, the Empress and Empress Mini

Empress bags and Empress Minis' in Alligator, Ostrich, and Karung
Meet our Signature Bag, The Empress and it's more petite counterpart, The Empress Mini.

In 2010, we launched our Empress Bag, which bears all the values we aspired in becoming our collection's signature piece. We named it the Empress because after all, she is indeed the supreme Queen of our designs.

Empress in Ruby Red Alligator
 
I was originally inspired by the shape and rhythm found in the geometry of a seashell when drafting this piece. I wanted this structured bag to be balanced with organic qualities. The result is a breathtaking design that is at glance simple for its repeating flowing curves yet upfront a mind spelling array of details that only a seasoned master artisan can approach. After rigorous prototype adjustments and detail specs, it was confirmed that my design would require two master artisans working side by side an entire week (so roughly 80 hours) PER BAG! 
Details of Empress Curvilinear panels and French Binding
 
For this reason alone, it is the most labor intensive and technically complicated handbag to construct on the market. Why you might ask? Several reasons:

-We have always employed a special detail in our bags explained in an article on this blog, "Not All Designer Bags are Equal", called a 'Turned Edge.' Using a turned edge detail requires a special type of artisan who has decades of experience in advanced handbag making techniques. The prep work and execution of this detail can multiply the total labor costs many times over, but this is the very nature of a handmade couture approach. The end result, a self-contained edge detail unrivaled by none. While all of our handbags employ the luxurious detailing of Turned Edges, we went a step further with the Empress adding to the complexity bringing us to the next detail:

Close-up panel details with turned edges and French Binding

- Every panel is trimmed with French Binding. Not only does this detail use a tremendous amount of material that is tooled from individual strips of exotic skin, it adds a type of luxury that simple top stitching can't achieve. It creates a beautiful trim that adds another layer of dimension to the edges of each panel. Prepping French Binding strips, and sewing to each panel which is then overlapped or under lapped to the panel adjacent, complicates things. Then, as if reading this hasn't caused your head to spin, there is another feature to take into consideration.

- Each panel on the bag is a curvilinear panel. Doing a turned edge detail  or French Binding detail on a straight edge is something to behold, but working those details on a curvilinear plane adds much more time and workmanship to get the material to behave and respond around the curves. 

Empress in Cognac Alligator & Ostrich


Empress in Karung, and one combined with Alligator








The end result is a unique and timeless beauty which has been enjoyed and collected by the likes of Royalty, Celebrities, and Socialites. We offer The Empress in a full range of materials and combinations of, including Alligator, Ostrich, Ostrich Leg, and Karung. The options are limitless and customizable if desired. 
Empress Mini in Alligator


Empress Mini in Ostrich








To celebrate our 5th year, in 2015 we launched a more petite version of the Empress, The Empress Mini. This compact version of its mother design, boasts no less in the complexity of it's details.

Thank you you for taking the time to learn more about our Empress!

Sunday, March 18, 2012

What is the difference between Alligator, Crocodile, and Caiman Crocodile?


 

When shopping for exotic skin merchandise, consumers are faced with three distinct choices: Alligator, Crocodile, and Caiman. I've noticed, especially after I went in the business of exotic skins that a lot of sales people are either uneducated or they're just trying to make a sale by telling you that something is what it clearly isn't... shocker!  

Since there is a difference between these three skins that will namely affect price and the level of desirability of the skin, its important to be aware of what you're getting. Not all designers will mark on their finished product what species you are looking at either so its better to go in with some knowledge beforehand.  In fact, don't pay attention to stampings such as "Genuine this or that". I don't want to be a whistle blower but I've seen reputable design houses stamp origin of species on their finished product that I'd guarantee was not what they marked it as.

Alligator, Crocodile, and Caiman are all members of the Crocodilian family but their ranking can go in the same order as far as prestige, looks, price, and quality of material.

Granted even within Alligator, you  can have lesser grade skins compared to premium grade skins within that class, but the quality will show on the finished product. Lesser grades are used for projects like motorcycle seats, cowboy boots, the lesser priced house brand department store belts, etc. Premium quality is reserved for designer/ couture handbags and accessories.

ALLIGATOR (Alligator mississippiensis) which I refer to the as the "Rolls Royce of exotics" is a uniquely American Species found only in the southeastern part of the US from eastern Texas through Florida in fresh water swamps. Alligator tends to be the most expensive of materials due to softness, texture, firmness, and overall more uniformity in scale patterning. Also, there are fewer Alligators in the world in ratio to other Croc species. It may be hard to tell the difference right off the bat from Crocodile, especially if you don’t have a trained eye, but placing a crocodile bag next to an alligator in the same design often has the consumer leaning towards the alligator because of the said differences. It just looks more expensive and its rarer in quantity so we tend to prize Alligator as the premium in exotics.

-       Visual Comparative: Umbillicus on Alligator

      • One key difference between alligator and crocodile skin is that the alligator has an umbilical scar on its belly, similar to a belly button. This scar is in the middle of its belly, and looks like a cluster of very tiny scales in a triangular shape. Often times, designers will choose to showcase this unique marking placed on a distinct area of the finished product to prove authenticity of the alligator.  Also, the belly tiles tend to be more squared off in shape than a crocodile which some find more visually pleasing.
 Umbillicus up close

CROCODILE is found all over the world and can be both freshwater and saltwater with the most common being Nile Crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus). Some particular species of Croc, the Porosus crocodile (Crocodylus Porosus) is a fairly good comparative to Alligator, as the characteristics of this skin is close to American Alligator. Price-wise, Nile Crocodile will often be retailed at a lower price than American Alligator but Porosus because of its rarity can sometimes be just as expensive as American Alligator.

-       Visual Comparative: Pores on Crocodile Tiles (Scale)

      • Here's where we get nerdy but bear with me: Crocodile have integumentary sensory organ pores, or ISOs. These pores usually contain a tiny hair that helps the crocodile sense its surroundings. After tanning, the hair is removed, but the pore will remain. The pore looks like a tiny hole in each scale which is a dead giveaway you're looking at a Croc product. Next time you go high end shopping, impress your friends and most likely the sales associate too by examining a product close up..look for that tiny hole in some of the scales and you can be sure to claim it as Croc. If not, most likely, you're looking at premium Alligator or the very prized Porosus Croc which has few if any of those ISOs. Also, Crocodile tiles tend to be more ovalish in shape than alligator in the belly.
 (see all the single pinhole pores on each tile, easy to spot right??)


CAIMAN: Here is where my bias as a couture designer comes to play. The next step down which is a huge leap down in quality, beauty, and price is a uniquely South American Species of Crocodile called Caiman Crocodile or Columbian Crocodile. This is a cheap alternative to using Alligator and Nile Crocodile and is often marketed as simply ‘Crocodile’ which can be somewhat misleading or ‘South American Crocodile’ or ‘Columbian Crocodile’ in which case you know what you're getting.

This is easy to identify by the price tag you will be looking at. On the whole, Caiman skins can cost about 1/10th the price of a premium Alligator or Crocodile skin. You won't find high end designers working with Caiman. Usually when a designer picks Caiman, they stick to that skin to be able to reside within a price niche and still label their product 'exotic.' When made into bags and other products the retail price alone will serve as a prime indicator. 

Visual variations to tell aside from price:

-       Caiman Pock marks on Tiles

o   Caiman crocodile is an easy one to spot because it has noticeably different tiles. The skin is characterized by pock marks on the tiles and the tiles tend to be concave in shape. Also, the skin is drier and not as soft as the above two. While you may have to look for telltale signs like ISO pores or umbillicus or overall patterning, etc to differentiate between Alligator and Croc, Caiman sticks out like a sore thumb.  
    - Caimans don't get as big as alligator or crocodile either, so often times you'll be looking at tiles that are about half an inch in width vs alligator or croc, depending on when the animal was harvested in its stage of growth can have tiles from half an inch in width all the way up to two inches in width.
     - I've seen some even bigger, but those are specimen skins often displayed on walls and not used in bags because by the time they get that big, the skin is too marred and tough to work into fine handbags, etc.
Now go out there and even if you're not in the market for an exotic skin product at the moment, impress yourself and your friends by sharing your new found knowledge in figuring out what you're looking at. If you are in the market, having this knowledge is imperative. It's like knowing your four C's when going diamond shopping! Not all diamonds are alike per carat weight and not all Crocodilians are the same.